Friday, September 24, 2010

Travelling up the coast - first stop Taiba

During the course of the week we had picked up a whole coconut to eat, if anyone out there knows the best way to get the flesh out of a coconut, please share it with us!





We had a very leisurely Monday morning as we waited for our rental car to arrive in Cumbuco from Fortaleza.  Once the car arrived, Pete stretched his Portuguese to the max trying to sort out the details of payment. ”Do we pay the full amount now or later? Hmm now you say, well what if we return it earlier?” To sort this little question out it took half an hour and two people from our pousada helping to translate to the rental car agent. After a phone call with his boss, we were sorted and good to go...phew!

We opted for a pretty budget car and even though everyone insisted that we need AC, we decided we didn't (it would have been an extra 17R a day). Turns out if you say no to AC you also don't get the super dark tinted windows...oh well I hear dry saunas are good for you. We drove out to Taiba and were surprised at how large the city actually is. We keep thinking that further up the coast we would hit small fishing villages and prices for pousadas would be cheaper....so far it's the other way around, Taiba is much larger than Cumbuco with the prices for pousadas being about the same.  Food does seem to be cheaper though, which is a good thing!  Surrounding the town of Taiba are giant wind mills. I was able to count 30 from the beach but I'm sure that there are more.  I wonder if that means that all the electricity in Taiba is clean? Either way pretty cool to see.





We drove around a bit and decided it was time to look for a place to stay. We followed every sign that there was for a pousada, knocked on many doors and checked out the rooms at many locations. Even though they were all empty, the prices were pretty high. We checked out this super ghetto place where laundry hung as curtains in the windows and there seemed to be lots of drunk locals hanging around...needless to say we didn't stay here. In desperation we came across a place that was a few buildings down from the 'ghetto' and decided to just stay there for a few nights.




The room itself wasn't that bad, but there was a smell that would appear out of nowhere from the bathroom and no, it wasn't created by us :) The smell was so bad that we would have to open both doors turn the fan on and vacate the room for a while...it was horrible. We survived in this room for three days and then moved onto a nicer pousada, which is right on the beach but more importantly it doesn't smell. Pete and I both decided that the smelly pousada was the second worst place that we have ever stayed...the first being a place in Mozambique where we decided to setup our tent inside of the room and sleep in that instead of touch anything in the room itself.

The wind is constant here, I'm pretty sure Pete's been out every day so far.  I had my first two days in at the lagoon and ate it pretty consistently! I think Pete had a good chuckle watching from shore.

Lagoon in Taiba

Pete's also been getting lots of jumps in at the lagoon and is looking very stylish when he rides



While we were at the lagoon, two local kids came by to kite and showed us how it's done.  They were just amazing.  I swear, the one kid wasn't a day over 12 but he was doing the biggest jumps and trying the craziest tricks.  They ride on older equipment or stuff that tourists leave behind, it's pretty great to watch.  Next time we come here, we'll bring our old kites and give them to these kids.





Two days ago, on the way back from the lagoon we took a wrong turn and ended up getting very stuck in the sand.



It took an hour and three additional people to get the car out of the sand trap. The whole incident was pretty funny and the other upside is that we made friends with a Spanish couple who live here three months out of the year. A few Canadian friends of theirs arrived today and we are all heading to the beach for a BBQ later on tonight. They are all sponsored riders and the one Canadian is super good...he's been riding for 12 years now and he's only 21...oh to be young again!

The beaches in Taiba are really nice, and as Pete would like me to point out there are lots of girls in little bikinis :)



There are also signs that translate to no picnics allowed. I'm pretty sure that means just next to the tables that are owned by the pousadas and not the whole beach.



Pete was able to capture a pretty good picture of the moon rising over some sand dunes.  As we are very close to the equator, the sun rises at 6am and sets at 6pm on the dot all year around.




Saturday, September 18, 2010

Friday, September 17, 2010

Cumbuco Week 1

After a week in Cumbuco, my daily routine seems to consist of the following:

  1. Wake up sans alarm, go to window and confirm that the ocean is still white-capping
  2. Drink chocolate milk out of carton, eat orange and handful of cashews
  3. Drag a bean bag to the edge of the beach, and read a book until the wind hits 25 knots (at the moment, the book is a combination of Portuguese Phrases and Eat, Pray, Love - no comments please, but yes I am desperate)
  4. Kite until I drop
  5. Eat nutella  sandwhich
  6. Kite again
  7. Walk to town to get dinner, pick up bottled water, chocolate milk, ice cream, nuts, bread and more nutella
  8. Engage in awkward Portuguese conversations with Pousada staff
  9. Read
  10. Sleep
  11. Repeat
Monica's eye is still on the mend, and perhaps tomorrow will get her out on the lagoon for some kiting. She is being extra cautious with it just to be on the safe side, and has so far been burning through 1.5 books per day.

Cumbuco is an interesting town. It has a relatively small population (apparently 1600), and consists of a small town square with several restaurants that cater mostly to wind tourists, and locals from the nearby city of Fortaleza(2.5 mil). It has a large number of Pousadas in and around town, most of them completely empty because of the time of year. There is also a lot of half completed construction similar to the left. I can't tell if the town has seen better days or is just in the off season.


The food so far has been good, consisting of mostly grilled or barbecued chicken or fish. Being a tourist town, it isn't as cheap as one would expect. 40Reais (23CAD) will get you dinner for two with drinks and tip all in.  

The weather has been pretty amazing - it it spring here, which means that the temperature during the day gets up to a steady 29 degrees. The ocean feels like bath water, and is warmer than the swimming pools. I spend most of the day in just board shorts, and the shirt and flip flops come out in the evenings for strolling around town when the temperature drops to 25 degrees.

The beach is beautiful! One of my favourite things to do is to watch the sand change form throughout the day. In the morning, when the wind is not as strong, ripples form in the sand that have an amazing consistency. By the afternoon, the wind picks up, and smooths out all the ripples. Footprints disappear in a matter of minutes. Then by the evening, the wind slows down again, and the ripples show up.


The end of the day is usually punctuated by a few buggys returning from the lagoon 6km down the beach, and a few people getting out for that last sunset session before packing it in for the night.
Sunset session

one happy kiter

A fishing boat apparently - don't see where you put the fish once caught?
We tried to put together a bit of video and pictures to show the wind scene here. The fun thing to do is to spend and hour or so riding the 6km down the beach in the waves to the Cauipe Lagoon (freshwater). They have little huts by the waters edge that are served by the restaurants (coconuts, fanta and fried fish). The lagoon is busy, and full of local Brazilian kids who hang out on the off chance that a tourist will let them use there gear, and then they light up the lagoon and put everyone to shame.

**video taking too long to upload and timing out, but will try and post tomorrow**

Here are some pics that Monica snapped off while I was riding her kite today. It has been 6 days of kiting in a row, which is a first. 5 days on a 9m kite, and today on Monica's 6M.




I see that we have 11 followers - maybe you can figure out why there are no seagulls in Brazil? More soon...

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

We've been here for a few days now and I figured we'd better write a bit more about how our trip down here went, how the first few days have been and of course post more pictures!


Our flight to Fortaleza departed pretty late in the night so we had tons of time in the morning to pack.  It was a good thing as we tried to cut down on what we were taking to keep things as minimal as possible.  The rain jackets we packed in Vancouver didn't make the cut...neither did the jeans and hoodies.  We really left all cold weather cloths back in Canada, fingers crossed it doesn't rain and that there are no freak storms that come through.   


What Pete packed...in the end the towel and hat didn't make the cut either


Strangely, the snorkel and mask made it into Pete's backpack.  He promised to use it to catch fish for dinner...I'm still waiting :)

We had a two hour layover in Toronto...just enough time to get to the lounge, eat some food quickly and get to our gate.  The flight to Fortaleza felt really long!  It didn't help that neither Pete nor I had any idea as to just how long the flight was supposed to be...normally I know this information before I depart, but for some reason neither one of us had checked.  Based on the number of movies we watched it was at least 10-12hrs.

We arrived in Sao Paulo and had a 6 hour delay before our flight to Fortaleza.  We spent the time enjoying the warm weather, converting money and trying to order lattes.  Yes you read that correctly...we tried to order lattes.  The first attempt produced a cup of steamed milk with no espresso, we didn't realize this until we started drinking and even then it was after the first few sips.  I believe I commented to Pete that this was the milkiest latte I had ever had, upon closer examination it sure was!  We were too embarrassed to go back to that coffee shop, so went to another one and tried again.  This time we got the espresso but no milk...we consoled ourselves with the thought that at least in our bellies the two liquids had mixed to become a latte.  Still unsatisfied we tried one last time and were successful!!!  Ahhhh Cafe com Leite, you never tasted so good!  I'm not sure if I mentioned it before but English is not widely spoken...in fact it's not at all spoken or understood.



Cafe com Leite

Our flight to Fortaleza was fairly uneventful, except for the boarding bit.  I believe there were about 5 flights leaving from the same gate around the same time...it was an epic disaster!  We did make our way onto the plane and settled in for another 4 hour flight.

We arrived in Fortaleza with all but one piece of luggage, which was to arrive two hours later on the next flight.  As we were arriving fairly late in Fortaleza, Pete had arranged ahead of time for a driver to take us to our Pousada, so the three of us patiently waited for our luggage to arrive.  Needless to say we tipped him very well, not just for waiting but also for being so patient with us.  He only spoke Portuguese and dealt very well with two weary travelers.  I'm so happy that Pete's been learning Portuguese, it really has saved our butts on this trip!  We arrived at our Pousada around midnight or 1am and immediately fell asleep.


Pete doesn't even have to pump up his kite, a hose does it for him... luxury 

The next morning we awoke to a beautiful blue sky and tons of wind.  Pete was able to get out on the water and throughly enjoy himself.  This was the first time he'd been kitesufing in a few months, due to his finger injury.  He kited with the splint on and it surprising held up well against the elements.



We've been ending our days with walks on the beach to go into town for dinner.  It's really quite beautiful.




We spent Monday (today) at the lagoon, Pete will fill you in more on the next post.  The picture below is of all the kiter's in the lagoon.  All that I'll say now,  is that this place really is a kiter's paradise!



Saturday, September 11, 2010

28hrs of travel later

After 4 airports, 28 hrs of travel, lost baggage, and 3 hours of being forced to speak my best Portuguese, we woke up to this view:

It is going to be a tough next few months...

Thursday, September 09, 2010

It's not as bad as it could be...

Unfortunately the tea bags (shown in the previous post) didn't work and I had to go to the doctor and get some super strength antibiotic drops.  The hippie in me wanted to try the natural remedies for a while but as we are travelling to Brazil tomorrow and my eye looks like it lost a fight, I was swayed towards modern medicine.   I do have to say that after two doses of the good stuff, my eye is feeling much better and almost back to normal.

I reminded myself that it's not as bad as it could be...and this picture of Pete helped me to keep everything in perspective.  Poor Pete, the mosquito's really loved him!! 

The mosquito's in the Yukon liked the taste of Pete's eye

Luckily this happened at the beginning of that trip and he was back to normal in no time...


Well you will just have to take my word for it, it was sunny that day hence the glasses...his eye really was better.  Oh and yes, he is wearing his MCK bicycle jersey...always representing!

Wednesday, September 08, 2010

Monica starts her pirate training...

Words escape me for the following photograph - Monica has either completely forgotten how to make tea, or she got lost in the pirate book that she is currently reading. It almost requires a caption contest...



Actually she has some swelling in her eye, and has been seeking non-pirate alternative remedies and seems to be on the mend.

Tuesday, September 07, 2010

Monica's first epic post

Monica was meant to post today, but instead can be found next to the Malibu (not to be confused with "in" Malibu). She has been there since she got home. Her first epic post is still a work in progress.


The day after our arrival was Rishab's birthday - here is one happy looking kid.

Peter went to Orillia to visit his Grandmother...
Great form Nonni!

And I went to take some photographs in the garden - Adil wanted to see more pictures, so here they are:



Friday, September 03, 2010

A new beginning...

As we wound down our last couple of days in Vancouver, a few things became apparent when planning:

  1. You can always use more time
  2. Even when you have no time, you can still find time to waste it (like silly hat shopping)
  3. No matter how organised you want to be, not everything will get done (like booking the rest of your plane tickets)
Don't mess with me!
Mess with me and wear my coffee!

 There were a few last minute things to pack at chateu de t-chien:
3 kites 1 bag
We finally got it all packed up, and with a ride to the airport from Dave at 7am in the morning, the adventure begins...
I think we forgot the kitchen sink?
We will be spending the next few days with family before flying to Brazil on Wednesday.

Monica says she is rationing her blog posts because she doesn't want to bring blogger down too often with all the hits she will get on her epic posts. I am holding my breath.

You don't need a hat to be silly.
Thanks to the Spot Tracker that was gifted to us, you can now see exactly where we are at any given time:
http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=3Omk6/42.94852/-81.34796
You will note that the device is aptly named MIG - don't send in the troops just yet.

Two Melo Velos


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